The Nockherberg is, so to speak, the epicenter of Munich’s historic Paulaner Brewery. It sits majestically on a terraced slope to the right of the Isar River, overlooking the Au district—where, as early as 1634, monks brewed beer in what was then the Neudeck Monastery, located directly below the hill. The brewery’s headquarters is also located not far from this complex, which features a taproom, guest and event rooms of various sizes, the spacious, shaded beer garden familiar from TV commercials, and the large festival hall where the famous “Politiker-Derblecken” takes place. Paulaner has established an in-house brewery here for beers available exclusively on-site and has completely redesigned the interior—using natural stone, ceramics, terrazzo, wood, and metal.
Complete Renovation
The fifth season is the best, and in Munich there are two of them. Not only does the Oktoberfest in the fall lay claim to this title, but so does the Starkbieranstich at the start of Lent. Traditionally, it is celebrated in the Salvatorkeller of the Paulaner Brewery in the Au district, on the border with Obergiesing. Beer has been brewed here since 1634, and the traditional Starkbieranstich, featuring singing and performances, has taken place here since the 18th century.
This historic tavern is located on the Nockherberg, a slope along the high bank of the Isar River, right in the heart of the Bavarian capital. Until 2017, it was directly affiliated with the main brewery. At that time, the brewery moved to a more modern facility on the outskirts of the city, but the restaurant remained; with a change in ownership, a new culinary concept was also to be introduced. The two new proprietors, Christian Schottenhamel and Florian Lechner, bring extensive expertise to the table: Schottenhamel hails from one of the Oktoberfest dynasties. Head chef Lechner trained at the historic Käfer restaurant in Munich and subsequently transformed the Moarwirt in Dietramszell into a premier culinary destination.
To remain the flagship of the Paulaner Brewery, a fundamental renovation was called for—one that would continue to place beer culture at the center, even without an adjacent brewery. So several traditions come together here at the Nockherberg: the art of brewing—sacred in Munich—the Oktoberfest tradition, and the classic tavern. These elements were to be taken into account during the restaurant’s comprehensive renovation. This was clear from the very beginning, when the architecture and interior design firm frank architekten, based in Eggenfelden, Lower Bavaria, took on the task of developing the concept for the tavern.
It quickly became clear that an in-house brewery should be integrated into the building and become its centerpiece. Professor Markus Frank and his team had already overseen two other projects for Paulaner. It was important to him not to simply rehash what he calls the “time-honored architecture of coziness,” but rather to interpret it in a modern way. Combining regional materials with modern design concepts was a natural choice.
Local Materials
The choice of materials is simple yet high-quality: wood, natural stone, and copper are the primary materials, complemented by terrazzo floors and vanities as well as classic ceramic tiles. Discreet steel elements, such as stair railings, run through all levels. The functionality of the brewing equipment and the modern rustic charm of the dining area combine to create a contemporary interpretation of Munich’s pub culture.
Entering the building from Hochstraße through the floor-to-ceiling glass vestibule, one arrives in a foyer paved with slabs of Kirchheim shell limestone. A brass brewery logo embedded in the floor points the way. To the right and left are two cozy dining areas featuring classic oak floorboards and smoked oak wall paneling; maple tables round out the ambiance.
“Basically, we tried to use local, regional materials with natural finishes,” says Markus Frank. “Tradition and the quality of craftsmanship in working with these materials should be visible and tangible in every detail.” The sandblasted and brushed Kirchheimer Blaubank shell limestone sets the tone right here in the entrance area, as its blue-gray hue is repeated in the adjacent spaces: as a splash of color in the coordinating curtains of the guest rooms, through the tiles in the brewing area, all the way to the metal latticework in the taproom and the in-house brewery.
The centerpiece
Once you pass through the two front dining rooms and look up from the brass logo, you’ll find yourself standing before the centerpiece of the central, circular dining room: the two brewing kettles of the 20-hectoliter brewing system, which occupy the center of the circular space. Thanks to a sophisticated lighting concept and a skylight in the first-floor ceiling, the two copper kettles glow in a warm shade of red, as does the “Schank”—the Bavarian term for the bar—in front of them. The kettles stand out in the wide stairwell; the circular realm of the brewers in the inner circle is paved with hexagonal stone-gray Zahna tiles (150×173×11 millimeters, slip resistance class R11). A tiled parapet separates the brewing area from the outside. It follows the curve of the rotunda and winds protectively in front of the kettles.
A very special “Grant”
The wall is clad with clinker tiles; here, the Keravette 319 Royal model from Ströher in anthracite gray was used. The 71x240x11-millimeter brick slips extend down to the floor, where they form a closing ring around the open stairwell, which is surrounded by a lattice structure. Framed by two clinker friezes, a curved path made of porcelain stoneware mosaic tiles runs along the curve. Mosa-Tiles measuring 30×30 millimeters in medium gray were used for this and laid with cross joints. The two types of tiles create striking accents in the strictly divided space, both in terms of the color scheme and the surface texture.
The guest area incorporates both the light and darker color schemes: anthracite-gray Bitu terrazzo with light flecks extends all the way to the wood-paneled back walls, against which tall bar tables with bar stools are nestled. If you walk past the bar to the right, a traditional Bavarian feature is recessed into the curved rear wall: a mug safe with steel grilles, where regulars can store their personal beer mugs.
A special detail that not many taverns have anymore: Right next to the brewing kettle stands a so-called “Grant” (Bavarian for “trough”) with a water supply, where guests can rinse their personal mugs with clean water before the bartender pours them a beer. The Grant here also has its own story: “This granite trough is a traditional herb barrel that used to be found in every Bavarian tavern. We found it at a dealer in the Hallertau region,” says Markus Frank. The repurposed trough stands freestanding in the room, and its rough granite surface makes it a real eye-catcher.
