In Aschau, you can live in a farmhouse (B 6/2009), in Vienna in a brothel (B 9/2001), in Hamburg on a lightship (B 7/1999) or – as we report this time – on a merchant ship that was still ready to sail and mainly called at South America until the early 1980s. At that time, a passage of several weeks on the “fast general cargo ship” of the Hamburg-Süd shipping company cost between 4,000 and 7,500 marks. For this you got a spacious single or double cabin and access to a turquoise-colored, oval dining room, a panoramic salon under the bridge, a library and a small pool. There was also plenty of fresh air on the decks, where you could watch the sailors at work, and no doubt the occasional bout of seasickness. The Cap San Diego has been moored at the Überseebrücke since 1986, as stiff as concrete despite the choppy Elbe. A museum association maintains the ship, which has already swallowed up several million euros in maintenance costs. Because general cargo ships no longer go on long voyages. Instead of German sailors who get to know the world on shore leave, crews from all over the world are hired to unload the container cargo and sail on within a few hours.
All the more reason for visitors to the museum ship to want to get a taste of the authentic atmosphere. But this would have required funds from the preservation authorities. Much of Caesar Pinnau’s handwriting, who furnished the ship in 1961/62, can still be seen, the conservative solidity with which the adaptable architect achieved success between the Nazis, international style and postmodernism. Unfortunately, every DIY store faucet, every row of lights, the carelessly placed television set or refrigerator that you find in your cabin now tarnishes the pleasure of the ship lover. It would have been possible to seek advice from the Hamburg architects, who are experts in sailing, without having to make a large additional investment. It is precisely because today’s passenger ships look like floating apartment silos that people want unadulterated maritime architecture. That’s why you should definitely climb into the labyrinths of the engine room and wave tunnel, which are several storeys deep. Nothing here is reminiscent of seafaring; apart from the cramped conditions, it could just as easily be a machine hall at Krupp or AEG.
The association’s permanent employees and volunteers noisily work on the old barge every day. A slightly rumbling continuous ventilation system now ensures comfort in the cabin, but with a little skill and the tools at hand, you can also unscrew one of the seawater-tight brass windows or pull out the recessed louvers at night. The lockers and drawers offer plenty of storage space and everything is securely bolted in place. The doors click into place when you open them fully, the bed is a bunk with a cozy frame. Too bad there’s no storm tide!
Address
Hotel ship Cap San Diego
Berth Überseebrücke, Hamburg
www.capsandiego.de