How to Survive in Moscow

Building design

Public space was long a non-issue in Moscow. It was not until 2010, with the removal of mayor Yuri Luzhkov that a change began. A rethinking of public spirit occurred that went beyond the collectivist ideals of the Soviet period and the egocentrism of the preceding decade. As a result, planners once again began to work on the design of public space.

Public space was long a non-issue in Moscow. It was not until 2010, with the removal of mayor Yuri Luzhkov that a change began. A rethinking of public spirit occurred that went beyond the collectivist ideals of the Soviet period and the egocentrism of the preceding decade. As a result, planners once again began to work on the design of public space.

During the times of turbo-capitalism after the collapse of the Soviet Union, a small, closed club of Russian architects, men who are now around 50 years old, dominated construction activity in Moscow. Even international stars like Zaha Hadid and Norman Foster were not able to take advantage of the competitions they had won. While a small number of architects were mainly concerned with increasing their wealth, most were merely trying to survive. Under Moscow’s mayor Yuri Luzhkov, public space was not an issue. His conservative taste became the general standard and found its peak in bizarre antics like the monument to Czar Peter the Great – which is, at nearly 100 meters in height, one of the highest monuments worldwide.

Architecture as a Luxury Item

In 2007 architects Dmitri Likin and Oleg Shapiro founded the firm Wowhaus. After completing their studies in architecture in the wild 1990s, neither of them had any interest in designing shopping centers, pre-fabricated concrete buildings or ostentatious palaces for the nouveau riche. Instead, Likin became an art director for the first generation of glossy Russian magazines. In 1998 he began working for Channel One and is now the head designer at the television channel. Schapiro is primarily a “businessman” who continues to sell helicopters. Their financial independence gave them the freedom of following a clear architectural approach and in their architecture firm they only work on projects that genuinely interest them. “We didn’t face the problem of survival,” says Likin. Until 2010 Wowhouse remained rather small and manageable.

With Luzhkov’s fall from power and the election of Sergei Sobyanin in 2010 as the new mayor of Moscow, a rethinking of public space began to occur. Sobyanin introduced a new agenda for the city: The redesign of parks, the planning of new pedestrian zones and bicycle paths and the renovation of theatres and libraries became a key issue. On the political side, these projects were largely driven by Sergei Kapkov, who had been the head of the Roman Abromovich-financed national Academy of Football since 2006 and before that was the vice president of the Russian Football Association. In 2011 he was appointed director of Gorky Park and in 2012 became the city’s Minister of Culture. In this position he quickly became known as the “hipster minister” and was the face of the new, western-oriented Moscow.

“One of the tasks of architects is to create happiness”, says Dmitri Likin in a discussion. One of the first of the new, vibrant places Wowhaus created is the Strelka, an institute for media, architecture and design. Founded as a non-governmental institution in 2009, it offers one of the most unique forms of architectural education in Russia within a postgraduate program of study – a laboratory for a practical and theoretical examination of the city. Rem Koolhaas was the dean here for the institute’s first three years. One of Strelka’s most popular events is the so-called “Strelka Summer”, where lectures, film screenings and performances by international architects, designers and cultural scientists are open to the public and have had, in addition to the institute’s bar, the greatest public impact. Likin and Shapiro are among the five founders of Strelka. They are now members of the foundation’s board and also redesigned the institute’s building, which used to be a garage belonging to the Red October chocolate factory.

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Discovery of Rembrandt’s “Night Watch”

Building design
Amsterdam

Amsterdam

The team of restorers at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam made a sensational discovery. With the help of computer technology, a previously hidden sketch was found on the primed canvas of Rembrandt’s “Night Watch”, the most famous painting in the collection: A sketch that provides a precise insight into the history of the work’s creation For two and a half years now, a research team of 30 restorers has been busy […].

The team of restorers at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam made a sensational discovery. With the help of computer technology, a previously hidden sketch was found on the primed canvas of Rembrandt’s “Night Watch”, the most famous painting in the collection: A sketch that provides a precise insight into the genesis of the work

For two and a half years now, a research team of 30 restorers has been meticulously examining the world-famous painting using imaging techniques and computer technology. Museum visitors can look over their shoulders as they work in a glass box. “The Night Watch” belongs to the city of Amsterdam and has been part of the Rijksmuseum collection since 1808. Frans Banninck Cocq, the mayor and captain of the Citizen’s Guard of Amsterdam, commissioned the group portrait of officers and marksmen, which was completed in 1662.

“The discovery of the sketch is a breakthrough,” emphasizes Taco Dibbits, Director of the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. Researchers have long suspected that Rembrandt began his complex composition with a sketch – directly on the brown primed canvas. Later, he only made minor changes. For example, he painted over the feathers originally intended for the helmet of the militiaman Claes van Cruijsbergen. Scans also revealed that Rembrandt altered the position of Rombout Kemp’s legs. Originally, a larger number of spears were also intended in the upper right part of the work.

Looking at Rembrandt with different eyes

“Each new detail gives us further insight into Rembrandt’s creative process, his original idea, his thought processes and his material and artistic choices,” said Petria Noble, head of painting conservation. She is delighted that the varnish on the painting is still in excellent condition. However, some not-so-pleasing discoveries also came to light during the examinations. For example, a series of waves that developed across the painting after it was moved during an earlier renovation in 2003.

It will now be removed from the frame for three months and straightened. The depiction of the dog is also marked by decay. The research team had attributed its discoloration to the fact that the paint was decomposing. Instead, they have now discovered that the wear and tear in this part of the painting has led to greater exposure of the newly discovered bright sketch. “All these discoveries make us look at Rembrandt’s paintings with different eyes,” added Noble. “We now know what to look for.”

Reading tip: “Operation Night Watch” is the title of an ambitious project. In July 2019, a team of restorers began researching and restoring Rembrandt’s “Night Watch”. The artwork, one of the centerpieces of the Amsterdam Rijksmuseum, is to be secured for the future. Read more here.

Scenes from the Cimetière Saint-Pierre in Marseille

Building design

STEIN presents a photo gallery featuring historic tombs from France’s third-largest cemetery.

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Saint-Pierre has plenty of sculptures like these to offer. Photo: Anne Fischer
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Local limestone is the primary material used for most of the tombstones. Photo: Anne Fischer
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And depending on the section of the cemetery, they can be quite impressive. Photo: Anne Fischer
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A stone picture frame as a grave ornament. Photo: Anne Fischer
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In the background, a touch of modernity—in the form of large urn fields. Photo: Anne Fischer
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Even a hundred years ago, there were already off-the-shelf products—just on a mausoleum scale. Photo: Anne Fischer
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The ravages of time take their toll; the administration cannot preserve all the gravestones. Photo: Anne Fischer
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A mausoleum door clad in natural stone. Photo: Anne Fischer
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The historic gravestones are mostly found on pine-covered hills. Photo: Anne Fischer
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A flagship project, certainly even at the time of its creation. Photo: Anne Fischer

The mausoleums are falling into disrepair, while the urn fields are expanding

The Cimetière Saint-Pierre is one of the newer cemeteries of its kind: it was established in 1855 and officially inaugurated eight years later. Previously, the people of Marseille buried their loved ones in smaller parish, monastery, or hospital cemeteries—or at the central Saint-Charles Cemetery. Located in the city center, the latter quickly ran out of space and was permanently closed in 1876. Saint-Pierre replaced it, covering an area of 63 hectares.

At first glance, this seems overwhelming. But visitors quickly find their bearings by following the greenery: wherever pine trees grow on small slopes, they are sure to find the historic burial sites. Dozens of renowned French entrepreneurs and artists—including painters, sculptors, and singers—are buried here. Among them is the composer Vincent Scotto. He wished for the following epitaph: “All my life I have composed; today I am decaying.” However, it never came to pass—Scotto’s wife deemed this final wish inappropriate.

Saint-Pierre stands as a striking testament to the changing funeral culture in our neighboring country as well. Extraordinary—and above all, an extraordinary number of—mausoleums, sculptures, and funerary monuments commemorate the cemetery’s heyday—even if some of them are now aging and falling into disrepair in a regrettable state. Huge urn burial grounds down the hillside serve as their modern counterpart.

In total, around 150 employees now work at the cemetery, which contains 100,000 graves. Unusual to German eyes are the cars that, while not numerous, do pass through regularly. Saint-Pierre has a road network totaling 15 kilometers. In Marseille, too, the city administration is working to find solutions for the changing face of cemeteries. Among other initiatives, it has launched grave sponsorship programs and is attempting to catalog as many of the graves as possible in an online database. There is an interactive terminal at the cemetery (and also at the 20 others scattered throughout the city). Interested visitors can use it to search for the graves of famous people—or to find that of a relative on the vast grounds.


The editorial team will continue the series “Impressions from the Cemetery” at irregular intervals—and welcomes suggestions and requests via email to redaktion@stein-magazin.de